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Interior Modifications

VY/VZ Headunit Mod for Aux Input

Specific interior modification information for Holden Commodore VY and VZ Series Holden Commodores, and HSV models

Postby TazzI » Sat Jun 02, 2012 4:10 am

I don't get any popping, Maybe its the way its wired? or the relay quality?. Possibly a different set up as I used a single 5pin relay.
Wired up with the stock factory phone buttons ect. (I figured if im gonna do it..may as well go all out!). My setup is now in my mates vz but it uses a cheap nokia CK-7, grabbed it for $25 off gumtree and I didnt have any trouble with dropouts/communication loudness with others on the line. I had the mic on the sun visor.
I also think it depends on what phone is connected as well, my iphone had no issues.

As for upgrading, I know 'bury' bluetooth units are universally great kits.. bit higher up in the price range though.

Yeah, text on head unit would be priority. Reading through Vlads Chronicles (assuming we all have read his ipod development saga?), He states that the 6stacker and single cd Unit require large changes to the code for displaying text due to different pixel resolutions (6stacker has more). Also he showed the lcd screen in what seems to be a "diagnostic mode" which showed all the dotmatrix completely lit up (same as what you can do to instrument clusters). So I reckon it does have a "diagnostic mode" as well.

In saying all that, Vlad shows where all his ribbon wire is hooked up to in his installation guide, would that help out at all to what he is tapped into to get control of the head unit display?

As for ALDL, Just started with the ALDL logging/tuning, amusing stuff, so much information to sort!

If it is of any use, Iv got a 6stacker and a single cd unit ready to be mangled if need be :D ,They were me test units when I was learning how to get the bluetooth and aux working together properly
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Postby TazzI » Mon Jul 09, 2012 6:12 pm

Still very keen in the integrated ipod setup.
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Postby Nemesis04 » Wed Jul 11, 2012 3:55 am

Yeah sorry guys, I'm waiting for another head unit to be delivered before I pull my main unit out to start updating firmware and to re-document the pin outs... although as it stands this doesn't have any iPod control, yet. ;)
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Postby Nemesis04 » Wed Aug 01, 2012 7:06 pm

I've got the other head unit modified and now I'm writing up a quick and dirty guide to making your own Aux-in mod! Wooo!
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Postby Nemesis04 » Wed Aug 01, 2012 9:18 pm

Bellow is a Step-by-Step Guide to installing your own aux input mod, it assumes knowledge in soldering, micro-controller programming and general disassembly skills.

Note, this is not a definitive guide, more of a list of tips and wiring diagrams.

Step 1
Remove head unit from dash... This can be done by bending two coat hangers with small notches to catch on the retaining clips by placing them in the four holes on the sides of the head unit.
They look like a U rotated by 90 degrees, I'd take pictures of mine but they seem to have gone walk-about.

Step 2
Insert your custom removal tools about an inch into the head unit and gently wiggle the head unit from left to right. This can be a bit tricky but once you get the hang of it but will eventually pull free from the dash, and you'll be able to do it in a flash.

Step 3
Remove face plate using a torx screw driver, the cd stacker and the bottom plate of the head unit. These will require two types of torx bits; don't be tempted to use a flat head screw driver because if the bolts are stubborn/stuck you'll strip the head and you'll need to drill the bolt out (I've had to do this and it's not really fun).

Note: Be very careful when removing the stacker, depending on your model there is either a flat grey ribbon cable or a tiny white ribbon cable. Both are very fragile and do have enough slack so that the stacker can be rested on the side, as seen below. Gently lift the stacker off when you have removed the screws to see where it is.

If your CD player has the red connector there are two retaining clips on the side of the plug that can be gently pushed aside to separate the ribbon cable.
The alternate plug is a small white ribbon cable that can be removed by carefully pushing the two brown lugs in the direction of the ribbon cable.

Step 4
Fire up that soldering iron and lets inhale some tin fumes!

Step 5
By following the pin outs on the attached images you should be able to connect them to your proto-board or dev-board to start controlling the TDA7348 and to intercept commands from the face plate.
My solution uses an Atmega8 and small piece of proto board in a hobby box; your's may be different but the pin outs can be used and code modified to suit a PIC or alternate micro.

LCD, labelled as follows:
1: 5V constant supply
2: Button Data (MOSI to microcontroller)
3: Clock (CLK to microcontroller)
4: Chip Select (pulled low when about to send data, to CS on micro)

SDA and SCL are tied directly to micro-controller, they already have pull up resistors so are not required.

Left, Right and Ground are the audio input to the TDA mux. Note, a capacitor needs to be placed in series as explained in step 6.

I have my wires running from the head unit to an external box just behind the passenger side right kick panel and RCA connectors for an aux in connector. This approach has introduced noise into the i2c comms line when the head unit is in standby, this in itself isn't a problem but sometimes my micro is convinced a device is trying to talk to it and holds the i2c line hostage. This is rectified by turning the head unit off and then on again, where the on button is recognised by the micro and releases control of I2C.

Step 6
Wiring up the sweet aux input!
This step simply requires you to wire the aux in to the TDA7348 as seen in the diagram. Note, the Left and Right channels need to use decoupling caps or the sound won't be optimal and will sound dull. They MUST be electrolytic caps that are polarised, the negative terminal feeds directly to the source device (say an mp3 player) and the positive goes in the direction of the TDA7348 chip. I used 10uF 50V caps, overkill but it's what I had available at the time.

Step 7
Program your micro, validate the flash...

Step 8
Test, make sure that all connections are free from shorts and fire her up!

Step 9

Turn head unit on, "pause" the FM station... enjoy your own music!

I'm still developing the interface and am steering away from iPod but instead using an android phone that can be controlled via the head unit and the control sense included in the four pin audio jack; similar to how the headphones that come with most modern phones control media, volume etc.

stacker.jpg


tda_label.jpg


i2c_label.jpg


lcd_interface_label.jpg
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Postby Nemesis04 » Thu Oct 18, 2012 5:37 pm

Bump

I've been playing with controlling the LCD interface of the SPI interface between the main board and the face plate and have decoded a number of commands. I've also discovered how to transmit alphanumeric characters to the screen, although limited, it can be used to display fairly clear strings on the standard alphanumeric head unit.

I've added a list of commands that toggle different parts of the LCD after sending them over the SPI comms.

The basic packet to be transmitted over SPI is as follows:

no_packets, COMMAND, Data(1), Data(2), ... , Data(n), Checksum, 0

A sample command to send data to the top alpha and bottom alpha, respectively, is as follows:

8, 103, 72 , 69, 76 , 76 , 79 ,32, 32 ,32, 67, 0
Gives... "HELLO "
4, 104, 73 ,80,79,79, 163
And... "IPOO"
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Postby TazzI » Fri Oct 19, 2012 10:48 am

:o I feel like a kid in a candy store! AMAZING work Nemesis.

Was reading up on sniffing the communication from the lcd screen using a logic sniffer. Sounds like youv successfully decoded the lcd's protocol. NICE.

Had a read through the excel sheet, Looks like theres alot of different "preset" protocols to display standard screen messages. Must taken a fair time to get through all that.
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Postby Nemesis04 » Fri Oct 19, 2012 2:50 pm

TazzI wrote::o I feel like a kid in a candy store! AMAZING work Nemesis.

Was reading up on sniffing the communication from the lcd screen using a logic sniffer. Sounds like youv successfully decoded the lcd's protocol. NICE.

Had a read through the excel sheet, Looks like theres alot of different "preset" protocols to display standard screen messages. Must taken a fair time to get through all that.


Yeah, just sat down with a beer (or 6) and worked through them one by one with a few different candidate packets. There are only 255 possible "commands" as defined by the size of the second byte, but only about 30-40 are used. Yeah, those standard messages where relatively straight forward because the command lengths where fixed. It took a while before I started sending "extra" packets of information with a few commands to see something... low and behold some worked, some didn't, and some produced garbage on the alphanumeric display... what was interesting... when I spammed packets to toggle "Code ----" produced text in the lower screen but with a different offset. /shrugs

I'm going down the path of using android and the headphone remote connection to change tracks. Unfortunately this doesn't display text but I have a bluetooth module that I got off eBay... that... well... works... but there is no datasheet and a proper procedure for pairing, sending commands, etc... it took me a few days just to power the damned thing on because the "application" schematic, if I can even call it that...... was not written in fluent English... /cough...

Let me know if that PM made sense, I'll update the main post when I get a chance.

Nem.
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Postby Nemesis04 » Sun Oct 21, 2012 12:01 am

Just realised I made an error (thanks for pointing it out TazzI ;) ) in the packets that are sent over SPI...

The corrected packets are as follows:

9, 103, 72 ('H'), 69 ('E'), 76 ('L'), 76 ('L'), 79 ('L') ,32 (' '), 32 (' ') ,32 (' '), 67, 0
Gives... "HELLO " (3 spaces at the end of O)

Where 9 is the number of packets (not including the checksum, and not including the "number" of packets that the LCD should expect) to be transmitted -- 1 byte
103 the command -- 1 byte
data (ascii in decimal) for HELLO___ -- 8 bytes
And the checksum. -- 1 byte

5, 104, 73 ,80,79,79, 164
And... "IPOO"

The values given are represented in decimal, they can be converted to text but it's easier to work in decimal. The checksum, although not included in the "total number of packets" transmitted, still needs to be transmitted to ensure that the packet received wasn't damaged in some way through packet loss or bogus information. A sample calculation for the "IPOO" checksum, if unclear of what it does and what not.

5 + 104 + 73 + 80 + 79 + 79 = 420
420 - 256 (to ensure that it does not exceed the size of byte 2^8) = 164

I hope the corrections alleviate some confusion. :)

Cheers, Nem.
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Postby jezzab » Sun Oct 21, 2012 3:09 pm

Top effort Nem and thanks for sharing!
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